Islamic antiquities ... continue

Bor: mosque of Abd Allah

This mosque was founded by Abd Allah Ahmad Isa, the son of Ahmad Isa, who is buried in the famous tomb near by, which is still a centre of pilgrimage. Both men came to Hadramawt from Iraq in 955 (340).

According to the historian Abdul Qader Sabban, there is textual evidence that the present mosque was built in the fifteenth (ninth) century above the earlier mosque, so that the construction became double-storeyed. The lower mosque became subdivided by foundation walls, although some attempt was made to keep open a section near the deep rectangular mihrab.

If the textual evidence is correct, the history of the upper mosque could be explained as follows. The fifteenth (ninth) century mosque was built with baked-brick columns for the three rows of the main prayer hall. Above the column level the construction was in layered, rammed clay, except for some baked brick in the superstructure of the courtyard side, where it was exposed to the sun. The arches of the main prayer hall were apparently of horseshoe shape. One of them remains in the first range of columns from the qibla wall, next to the eastern wall.

The minaret on the south-west corner begins on a square plan, with a square staircase round a square central post. The outer walls gradually change to a circular plan as the minaret rises. The upper storey has a series of arches on columns carrying a pointed dome. It is entirely constructed of unbaked earth.

The mosque is now in a ruinous state, with the qibla wall completely fallen, the north-eastern wall missing from the courtyard and rear hall, and the entrance wall partly fallen, so that only one jamb of the original doorway remains. Most of the columns and arcades are, however, in good condition.

Further damage was done to the mosque by the demolition of the south-west wall and parts of the arches abutting on it, to make way for the construction of the north-east wall of a new mosque on its foundation. The minaret of the old mosque was thus adapted in its entirety to serve as the minaret of the new mosque, and its decorated horizontal courses have been painted in an unsightly green oil paint.

Conservation. As the ceilings form an important relic preserved in this mosque (such ceilings are rare in Hadramawt), their protection is of considerable importance and urgency. This can only be done by protecting the integrity and stability of the arcades which support them, which means closing in the ends of their constructions.

The roofs have to be repaired, and the entire building maintained by repainting with lime once a year and occasionally repairing deterioration due to ageing.

Further study. Like so many mosques in Hadramawt, the building deserves thorough further study:

1. A consideration of the painted inscriptions on the ceilings, and a search through textual sources for further evidence of the dating of the stages of building.
2. A study of the construction of the building, particularly of the lower mosque, with the aim of establishing the original plan and its subsequent change.
3. A study of the decoration of the ceilings to establish parallels and sources for the patterns used.
4. Archaeological study of the surrounding area, especially the adjoining ruins of the Hisn. Pending this study, the ruined area nearest the mosque will have to be protected from spoliation by builders in search of cheap building material.

Sai'un: the Friday mosque

This large historic mosque is generally in good condition and well maintained, although it has recently been marred by the insertion of modern concrete screens in the south-west wall.

The Friday mosque contains some excellent woodwork, including several pairs of splendidly carved wooden doors on the south-west side, and a magnificent minbar. The artistic and historical value of these examples of traditional Hadrami work is such that the mosque authorities must be persuaded to guard against damage by careless painting or alteration in the future..

It is hoped that, following a detailed study of the building and the awqaf records, the mosque can be conserved as closely as possible to its traditional appearance.

Al-Ghurfah: mosque of Ba bath

Built in 1532 (940), and situated 6 km from Sai'un to the west, this important mosque has well-preserved ornamentation dating from the sixteenth (tenth) century over the three porch doorways, the mihrab with its bold shell semi-dome, surrounded by a strong frame, and a fine original minbar with beautiful arabesques. On this evidence it seems likely that most of the mosque, including at least the lower storey of the square minaret, dates from that century. As such, it is a major monument and should be protected by every possible means from deterioration or wilful alteration.

At present the mosque is well maintained and painted throughout in limewash. Members of the mosque community would like to replace it with a new building, however, so there is need for action, both to protect the building legally and to spread an understanding of its value among the people who use it.

Qabr Nabi Allah Hud

This ancient place of pilgrimage has been the centre of a religious cult dating from pre-Islamic times. It comprises three groups of buildings, all equally important.

Considering the practical problems of conservation, deterioration of the houses takes place in six principal ways:

First, there is the tomb of Hud himself, a domed structure high on the hillside, surrounded by a shaded arcaded walk for the pilgrims, for the heat in summer is fierce. Here, according to legend, Allah opened the rocks of the hillside to allow his prophet Hud to escape from his enemies. Below the tomb is the prayer hall, surrounding the great rock which is believed to be Hud's camel turned to stone. Also arcaded, it is a relatively new construction in its present form. Third, spread out on the flatter ground below, lies the well-built town, to house the pilgrims during the period of three days every year when they reside in it. It has its own mosques and tombs, carefully built like the houses of mud-brick and white plaster, and meticulously maintained. The simplicity and sober, abstract character of the plain walls, arches and domes evoke all that is finest in man's striving for spiritual harmony and peace. Except during the time of pilgrimage, the town is deserted. Conservation here is mainly concerned with protection against possible misguided despoliation of the character and beauty of the buildings and their setting.

Mashhad: tombs of Hasan ibn Hasan and Ali ibn Hasan

Some scholars date the oldest tombs to before 1591 (1000). They consist of a series of relatively large domed chambers, two of which contain large wooden tombs covered with sheet bronze, decorated in relief. One has a single tomb, the oldest, that of Hasan ibn Hasan; the largest contains five tombs, reputedly of Ali ibn Hasan, his wife and children. But the whole complex is said by other scholars to have been built or rebuilt only some 150 years ago.

The quality of design and execution of the tombs, together with their well-preserved setting inside the domed chambers, is exceptional and every effort will be made to conserve them. At the moment they are looked after by the Mansab of the village, although the tombs are empty. But the doors of the buildings are unlocked and it is not certain that vandalism is entirely obviated. The domed structures need considerable structural repair and replastering.

Preliminary estimate of cost

It is estimated that the repair and presentation of the five items mentioned on pages 122-5 above would cost a total of 500,000 Yemeni dinars.

Preserving cultural traditions in the wadi

Many of the crafts, pursuits and other activities need encouragement and financial subsidizing. The promotion and sale of craft goods will be improved and their distribution organized to other tourist centres and overseas.

1. Crafts. such as straw-plaiting, pottery making, woodcarving, weaving of wool and decorated cotton cloths (turbans and futahs), etc.
2. Pursuits: such as traditional building crafts, traditional medicine, etc.
3. Clothing and jewellery)!: such as traditional embroidery, gold and silver working, etc.
4. Food: traditional cooking and recipes, etc.
5. Poetry and folklore: the collection of proverbs, epigrams, poems and writing in prose, both traditional and modern.
6. Music and dance: traditional aspects up to the present day.
7. A museum of prehistoric, pre-Islamic and Islamic antiquities in Wadi Hadramawt: the new museum would accommodate new discoveries as well as the collections now dispersed in other centres which relate directly to the wadi. In this new museum the collections reflecting the traditional life of the people which are already situated in the Museum of Sai'un would be displayed under more favourable conditions.
8. A Wadi Hadramawt cultural centre here could be focused on many of the activities and training programmes related to sections 1 to 6 above.

Preliminary estimate of cost

It is estimated that construction and arrangement of a new museum at Sai'un and the provision of new manuscript facilities at Tarim would cost 3 million Yemeni dinars.

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